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Cake day: July 4th, 2022

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  • GrappleHat@lemmy.mltoRetroGaming@lemmy.worldDo you leave your consoles on?
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    18 days ago

    In ye old’n times we would leave the console on as a stop-gap way to save the game between in-game save opportunities. Because ye old’n times game design philosophy believed that the added difficulty of crazily separated save points was “fun”.

    In modern times I sleep the hardware if I expect to be back within <24 hrs, and power off if I expect to be longer.

    (Thank god for saving memory states in emulators!!! Elsewise I probably wouldn’t play retro games at all.)















  • Yeah, for sure. The analog stocks work flawlessly & I love them. I use them for games where they’re native (i.e. ZDoom & mods), where they emulate a mouse (i.e. Minetest), or where they emulate a d-pad (i.e. psx games). All cases work great! For d-pad games I find myself switching back and forth between d-pad and sticks depending on the application (i.e. Tetris needs precision & is better with d-pad, NBA Jam needs adaptivity & is better with sticks).


  • I have an Anbernic RG353M & it sounds like it fits your needs. Emulates up to PSP. Moddable: I run ArkOS which is Debian-based - so I can SSH in, apt install programs, run custom bash scripts I wrote, etc. I also ported a desktop game to run on it. So moddability points are high! Also dual-boots into Android, so Android games are available if that’s your thing. It comes with the Android dual-boot right out of the box!

    Downsides:

    • It can be a little small in my hands for long play sessions. I have a custom 3D printed handle extension which works great and solves this problem.
    • There’s a hardware problem involving the 3.5mm audio jack output where chip noise gets in the audio. Annoying, but ignorable. Switching to Bluetooth headphones is a fine workaround too.
    • In long play sessions when the device gets hot horizontal bar artifacts show up on the screen. Like the audio thing, they are annoying but ignorable. When they show up I normally interpret it as a sign I’ve been playing too long and take a break while the device cools down.

    Overall, it’s got those hardware quirks above but I still like it and I don’t regret it for the price (something like ~$100 a couple of years ago I think). Battery life is very good, even for graphics intensive games. It can go many hours without needing a charge, and generally it has better stamina than I do!


  • A couple of ideas:

    Encoding holograms

    • Model the object in 3D space (using Blender maybe?)
    • Use the Angular Spectrum algorithm to model light propagation, its interaction with the object, and it hitting the recording medium.
    • Your final recorded hologram should have two maps (aka “images”) across (x, y): a map of the light’s amplitude and another of its phase offset. This is your recorded hologram.

    Decoding holograms:

    • Use the angular spectrum algorithm again except reverse the light’s propagation direction. The amplitude and phase maps from the encoding phase are the initial conditions you’ll use for the light.
    • The light’s amplitude and phase information you calculate at various planes above the recording plane are the 3D “reconstructed” image.

    Last thought

    Holography is often used to record information from the real world, and in that process it’s impossible to record the light’s phase during the encode step. Physicist’s call it “the phase problem” and there are all kinds of fancy tricks to try to get around it when decoding holograms in the computer. If you’re simulating everything from scratch then you have the luxury of recording the phase as well as the amplitude - and this should make decoding much easier as a result!