That’s a good deal. I was looking at eBay and Tindie where even kits were $150-$200 if they were in stock at all.
That’s a good deal. I was looking at eBay and Tindie where even kits were $150-$200 if they were in stock at all.
That’s a great link. Also looks like the cheapest option for what I’m trying to do, so I might just buy it from there.
It’s a bummer that the Sanni reader parts are so expensive despite the design being open source.
Call it a hobby. Having the data from the physical cart brings me joy. Also, I’m looking to rebuild my collection from childhood for when the Analogue3D finally comes out.
Nah. They’re bootleg apparently. Returning them.
The only one I tried was AwakeningDX. It plays with a thick border, and saves don’t persist when you remove the cart. So sending the lot back.
Yeah. Analogue has a “hack” that lets you play ROMs off SD.
Just thought I’d try to do it “legit.”
Whelp kicked off an eBay return. Thanks all for the advice. $60 for 5 original games was definitely too good to be true.
So admittedly I bought all of these off eBay having done zero research. They’re all bootleg? If so, the physical quality is very good, but it could explain why Link’s Awakening won’t keep a save.
lol. Analogue also supports like 128 save states per cart, so it’lol be moot in two days
Heh feeling a bit silly for hitting the gas on a GBA Zelda lot on eBay when the Analogue can play GBC games natively. Did zero research.
The experience is arguably worse since there’s a fixed border around the GBC while Analogue can play GBC natively. Oh well.
Ok so the Analogue comes in 2 days. Dusted off my DSLite to get started on Awakening and saves don’t persist after I remove the cart. Cart battery reads 3.3V. Any ideas?
Super high battery internal resistance? Haven’t tried to replace it yet.
And Usain Bolt ate exclusively McDoods Nugs.
It’s a lot of work. At the end of the day, I spent about $1k to get about $100 worth of gold, so it’s really not lucrative. I just wanted a fun story behind an engagement ring.
I actually mined the gold from electronics and those gold plated Pokémon cards they sold at Burget King for Pokémon the Motion Picture, but that’s another process.
Here’s how it goes:
Clean up your electronics. You ideally want just circuit board contacts. Like the strip of contacts on a stick of ram. Cut/break those off and dispose of the rest.
Soak in copper chloride. Use Hydrochloric acid (sold as concrete cleaner) and hydrogen peroxide. It’ll start eating at the copper on the circuit boards. 2HCl + H2O2 + 2Cu -> 2CuCl + 2H2O
Keep dissolving. This part takes a while. It helps to use a stir bar and bubbler to keep the fluid moving. CuCl will eat more copper and produce CuCl2, but you can “recharge it” by adding more HCl and bubbling in oxygen (or use hydrogen peroxide, but that’s more expensive).
Now you should have a bunch of flakes of gold that was plated onto the copper as well as the bare circuit boards floating around in a dark green solution of copper chloride. Pour through a coffee filter and wash with water to remove all the copper chloride.
To recycle the copper chloride, mix with sulfuric acid (sold as battery acid). CuCl + H2SO4 -> HCl + CuSO4. Boil off and condense the HCl to re-use. You won’t be able to get “fuming” 30% stuff like you buy at the store because the azeotrope of HCl is 20%. Then you can plate out the copper from the copper sulfate and reuse the resulting sulfuric acid. Copper sulfate is a super pretty blue by the way.
You do copper sulfate because plating copper out of CuCl2 will release HCl gas which is nasty.
Filter through another coffee filter and distill resulting solution to recover HCl and H2SO4.
Dry the filter paper, ball it up, and toss it in a heated crucible (I used a blow torch) with some borax to act as a flux. Eventually the paper burns away and you’re left with a tiny bead of gold.
So yeah, you can reuse the copper, Hydrochloric acid, and sulfuric acid, and the other byproducts are harmless salts and gases.
As someone who has personally mined 2.5g of gold from old electronics, I can confirm that while messy, there are no toxic byproducts.
In my setup, the only waste was hydrogen gas, CO2, and NaCl.
Of course I preprocessed my electronics to remove any solder or components, and you’re still left with the bare fiberglass circuit boards, so it may be different on an industrial scale.
Yeah, and increasing your buying power can talk you into making a larger purchase than you might otherwise have made.
Oh right, duh. Thanks.
I believe the optimization came because the denominator was a power of two. In my memory, the function counted up all of the bytes being sent and checked to see that the sum was a multiple of 16 (I think 16 bytes made a single USB endpoint or something; I still don’t fully understand USB).
For starters, you can split up a larger modulo into smaller ones:
X = (A + B); X % n = (A % n + B % n) % n
So our 16 bit number X can be split into an upper and lower byte:
X = (X & 0xFF) + (X >> 8)
so
X % 16 = ((X & 0xFF) % 16 + (X >>8) % 16) % 16
This is probably what the compiler was doing in the background anyway, but the real magic came from this neat trick:
x % 2^n = x & (2^n - 1).
so
x % 16 = x & 15
So a 16 bit modulo just became three bitwise ANDs.
Edit: and before anybody thinks I’m good a math, I’m pretty sure I found a forum post where someone was solving exactly my problem, and I just copy/pasted it in.
Edit2: I’m pretty sure I left it here, but I think you can further optimize by just ignoring the upper byte entirely. Again, only because 16 is a power of 2 and works nicely with bitwise arithmatic.
Lol, no, but in the summers we were allowed to wear t-shirts on Friday.
Stares are 1100 DVDs on the wall 👀
(This is an old pic)